Christians fleeing persecution in Syria landed in Kerala in the first century. Their cooking styles mingled with the spices of Kerala creating the unique cuisine of the Syrian Christians. Unlike western cuisine, Syrian Christian curries use coconut oil, mustard seeds, curry leaves, and coconut milk extensively.
Arab traders have been trading with Kerala for centuries. Some stayed back, married local women and became Mappillai (Son-in-law), or Moplah muslims. Their cuisine has more in common with Arab cuisine than with South Indian or Mogul cuisine. Unlike Mogul curries, the moplah curries do not use rich ingredients but rely heavily on spices of the south like coriander powder, chili powder, turmeric and cumin. Like Syrian Christian cuisine, it uses meat extensively.
The meat based Malabar cuisine is not covered here. We’ll instead concentrate on the vegetarian curries of Palakkad, Thrissur and Travancore.
Kerala has been a home to Brahmins since the earliest times. Over time, Brahmins evolved a separate identity, lifestyle and cuisine and came to be called Namboodris. They created some very unique curries with minimal spices. The delicious Olan and Kaalan are Namboodri curries. Namboodri curries prefer the use of pepper over chili. Spartan simplicity and elaborate rituals are a hallmark of Namboodri cuisine. Their feasts (sadhaya) display the rich array of curries they can magically cook up with very few ingredients and with the use of very little spices.
A few centuries later, Tamil Brahmins from Tanjore, Madurai and Tirunelveli migrated to Kerala through the breaks in the mountain chains in the north and south. They created major Brahmin settlements in Palghat, Thrissur and
Kerala curries are built around coconut and yogurt. Unlike other south Indian states, tamarind or lentils play only a marginal role. Coconut meat, coconut milk, and coconut oil are combined with chili, cumin and yogurt to create a variety of lightly spiced, easy to prepare curries. It is in Kerala we see black pepper jostling chili aside in many curries. Unlike the rest of south
0.: Parippu ( Plain Lentils) Paruppu is a thick curry made from boiled and mashed lentils. It is the simplest curry of them all. Just boil split green gram/ tuvar dal with a pinch of turmeric and parippu is ready. Drizzle with ghee, mix with hot rice and dig in ! Parippu is normally spiced up with a variety of elaborate flavourings. Check the model recipes below for details.
Bharathy’s Spiced up Tuvar dal with Coconut, Ashwita’s Parippu with roasted Mung dal,
Anu’s spiced up Parippu with garlic and onions.
1.: Olan (Coconut milk curry). Olan is a chunky curry made from coconut milk and flavoured with coconut oil. Boil vegetables, add coconut milk and coconut oil and presto! Olan is ready. Though a variety of vegetables can be used in this lightly spiced curry, ash gourd and black eyed beans are the favourites.
Olan with Coconut milk, Ammupattis Olan sweetened with jaggery ,Sheela’s westernized Olan
Viji’s Olan, Inji Pennu’s Papaya Olan, Prav’s Zucchini Olan
Simple Olan
Simplicity is a hallmark of Kerala cuisine. So we have versions of Olan which are even simpler and omit coconut milk altogether, relying on the vegetables and coconut oil to provide the flavor. Just boil vegetables (usually ashgourd) in water with a pinch of salt. Cook till done and serve with a dash of coconut oil. Can a curry get any simpler?
Deepa’s olan without coconut milk
Muthu’s pulingari, Vasantha’s Pulingari with tuvar dal, Latha’s pulingari, Pulingari variations
Aparna’s Ripe plantain More Kootan, Deepa’s pineapple pulissery, TBC’s pineapple pulissery
Anu & Veena’s Mango Pulissery with garlic, Chitra’s Pineapple – cucumber pulissery
Nupur’s Butternut squash Erissery, Annita’s Yam & Plantain Erissery, Prav’s Green gram – Plantain Erissery.
Sadhaya Kaalan, Kaalan for Oonam
A version of Kalan called Kurukku kalan (literally evaporated Kalan), cooked to last, is made by slowly simmering away the water from the coconut- cumin- pepper – yogurt paste, leaving behind a thick paste. This is then mixed with boiled vegetables. This keeps well for a couple of days without refrigeration or lasts for a month refrigerated (getting tastier as it ages).
Seena’s kurukku Kaalan
Nag’s patriotic Beans and Carrot Thoran, Rajitha’s Beans Thoran, Jayashree’s Papaya Thoran
Vini’s Cabbage Thoran, Jyotsna’s Beetroot Thoran
Recipe for simple Mezhukku Peratti from the Palakkad Iyer forum. Another one from Palakkad recipe hub and Sheela’s plantain Mezhukku Peratti - an unusual, spiced up version with tamarind, brown sugar and surprisingly, peanuts! And this is how new cuisines evolve - by substituting locally available stuff in traditional recipes like Asparagus Mezhukku Veratti.
Aparna’s Molagootal, KPR’s Molagootal, Ammupatti’s Molagootal, Molagootal – with a double twist – using two dals and vegetables.
thanks for linking 2 of my recipes :)
ReplyDeleteA great round up of kerala recipes,including and encouraging so many bloggers in one post as always!!!
ReplyDeleteClap clap Clap!!
BTW,ramki I am co-ordianting with srivalli(cooking4allseasons)for the friendship chain of arusuvai.It is about passing ingredients among the bloggers in India..already 40 have been a part of the fun..are you intersted to join?(you may not cook with the ing if it is a trouble for you..if you can cook and post well and good)just receive the ing from a donor in India..would you??
Details are there in my blog side bar..drop a comment somewhere there or mail me at bharathy.vasu@gmail.com :)
Thanks for the mention....
ReplyDeleteHey Ramki,
ReplyDeleteThanks for stopping by my blog.
Thanks also for linking my recipe. This will definitely be of great use to a first-time cook.:-)
Thanks for linking my blog:). I had been through your blog twice or thrice when i was reading a post in Ammupatti's blog. Cool Work.
ReplyDeletea very comprehensive and unque roundup a technicality - palghat is not south kerala. plus, cochin in central kerala has its own cuisine. while keralites use tamarind only occasionally, the use of kodampuli as a souring agent is prevalent.
ReplyDeletepeppertrail.com is a great source of recipes from kerala.
Pravs : Thanks
ReplyDeleteBharathy : Thanks again !
Jayashree, TBC and Mrs. Iyer : Thank you !
Bee :
You are right. Geographically, Palghat is very much to the north. But cuisinewise, I guess it is closer to Thrissur and Trivandrum. ( And this is what I'd tried to do with the map, showing North Kerala separately).
Reg : Kodumpuli. Thanks. I've highlighted it better now.
I'd love to have any information on central Kerala's cuisine.
Thanks Ramki for linking my recipe to your 1001 1001 Kerala curries list. And thanks for motivating me (and other such food bloggers) by linking recipes to your site.
ReplyDeleteThese one page cookbooks and the 1001 lists are really handy! Great work...
Great Work Ramki..thanks alot for linking my recipes ..
ReplyDeleteHi Ramki,
ReplyDeleteWas interesting to see your page for new bloggers like me. I am also a kerala iyer, from Chennai, currently in the U.S and I welcome you to visit my page and leave your comments.
Thanks.