
Like many coastal cuisines, fish and coconuts are extensively used in Bengali cuisine. Fish is so much a part of the daily diet that it even forms a part of the traditionally vegetarian Brahmin diet. Unlike North Indian cuisine, parboiled rice is a staple. The flood prone land does not support a large dairy industry and so dairy products like ghee, milk or yogurt are not extensively used in daily cooking. A typical Bengali meal consists of Rice, Dal, Vegetables and Fish. This apparent simplicity hides the fact that over 18 different types of cooking techniques are called upon to produce an array of delicious curries.
The curry base : See Column 1
Mustard paste, khus khus paste, pulses, vegetables, yogurt, onion- tomato are all used as curry bases across the state. A selection of popular curries is listed below:
The Bengali Raita is very similar to a regular North Indian raita, and uses most salad vegetables. As mentioned above, yogurt is still not a part of the daily diet in Bengali homes. But raita is gaining popularity and will very likely be regarded as a Traditional Bengali curry a few decades down the line.
The Posto is a unique Bengali curry built on khus khus paste.
Shorse Jhol is another unique curry made from a paste of mustard seeds.
Shukto is a combination of the Posto and Shorse Jhol as it is made from mustard seeds and khus khus, both blended together. It usually has a mix of vegetables, with atleast one bitter vegetable.
Rezala is Mogul curry made by simmering a wide variety of goodies in flavoured yogurt. It has to be cooked on low heat with constant stirring to prevent the yogurt from splitting.
Dalna can be dry or have a stew like consistency and is made from onions, tomato and coconuts. Dhokkar ( refried chana dal patties) is commonly used in a Dalna.
Shak is a dry spinach curry. It can be made from any leafy vegetable.
A variety of dals like Masoor dal, Mung dal and Chana dal are cooked across the state.
Ambal is one of the very few Bengali dishes which use tamarind.
Flavouring : See column 2
The usual North Indian flaourings of cumin, garam masala, turmeric, coriander, fenugreek, ginger, chili, kalonji, are all used in Bengali cuisine. Cinnamon , cloves, cardamom are occasionally used. A mixture of five spices, the Panch Phoran is widely used. Unlike North Indian curries, mustard oil is extensively used. Coconut oil / sesame oil / Asafetida / curry leaves are almost never used. Traditionally, a curry base is often paired with a particular flavouring. For example, a Rezala (Column 1 , row 4) is usually flavoured by bay leaves, cardamom and cloves ( Column 2, row 3). This is because a Rezala is a Mogul curry and so uses typical Mogul flavourings. However, it is not a crime to flavor a Rezala with Panch Phoran. Similarly feel free to experiment with various flavouring options listed in column 2.
Goodies : See Column 3
Traditional curries use select pairings of a curry base and goodies. For example, dals are usually paired with Dhokkar. Similarly, a shukto always has bittergourd, eggplant and plantain. But feel free to use your favourite goodies in the curries above. They might not be traditional, but they’ll very likely be delicious. Though listed here, mushroom and paneer are not frequently used in Bengali curries. However, a wide variety of veggies and leafy greens are used. Dhokkar is commonly used as a vegetable substitute. (Dhokkar : Boil Chana dal. Mash and pat into a sheet. Cut into diamond shapes. Shallow fry in oil. Add to simmering curry).
What makes a curry a Bengali Curry ?
1. Use of mustard oil
2. Use of mustard paste & khus khus paste as curry bases.
3. Use of panch phoran for flavouring
4. The use of fried chana dal patties (Dhokkar) as a vegetable substitute.
5. Use of sugar in curries and
6. The huge array of cooking techniques.
And that's my entry for Sandeepa's Regional Cuisines of India.


7 comments:
Hi Ramki, you can't just say that Bengali cuisine is all about mustrad oil, khus khus paste and panch phoron. There's lot more to it. Considering Bangladesh and ythe different parts of Bengal there are more kinds of cuisine styles than you can even think of. So before making a comment , do check it out first.
Hello Ramki, first time here! Retired at the age of 39!! You are one lucky dude! :D
Glad you are enjoying your passion for cooking, me too!:)
I have yet to surf your blog, enjoying the one page collection, good job.See you again later, I am on blog break now.
Hi Sudeshna,
I never implied Bengali cuisine is "all about mustard oil and Panch Phoran". No mature cuisine can be summed up in a few words. However, the idea behind One Page cookbooks is not to get into details, but to give a beginner a overview of a cuisine and not to get into detailed discussions about finer aspect of a cuisine.
Hi Asha,
Thanks for dropping in. I love your photos. Keep clicking !
I agree with Sudeshna here. You should do more detailed research before putting up a page on a cuisine. I found your overview so very generalized that it might mislead people
sandeepa
Hi Sudeshna / Sandeepa,
If you spot an error, I'd suggest you point it out. As you say, a generalized comment is not of much help.
/Cheers
Sent you a mail, hope it helps
Thanks
This is in reply to Sandeepa's mail :
“ I do appreciate your effort in the compilation but it would help you a lot if you check this page in Wikipedia : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bengali_cuisine. This is so very well researched and though concise covers the nuances of Bengali cuisine, you can get lots of ideas from there.
I wish I could share your total belief in Wikipedia, but take a closer look at what it says about Bengali cuisine :
“Spices are used sparingly, and the methods of preparation are relatively simple - steaming, frying or stewing”.
(Wrong : One of the hallmarks of Bengali cuisine is the extensive repertoire of cooking techniques).
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curry) Bengali Curries are known for their extreme spiciness ( huh? What the hell is extreme spiciness ? ).
Coconut is not used extensively in Bengali cuisine. There are some dishes where it is used and coconut laddoo is popular but it is not a major ingredient of Bengali cooking ?
Do refer to the wikipedia article – “There's a greater use of coconut, both in cooking and in desserts.”
You say "Dhokkar ( refried chana dal patties) is commonly used in a Dalna" -- again this is not right. Dhokar Dalna is one kind of dalna, dalna is a kind of a gravy based dish.
“Dhokkar is commonly used in a Dalna”. I really do not understand what is wrong here. A Dalna is a gravy based dish, which could be cooked anywhere. Wikipedia again :” Dalna: Mixed vegetables or eggs, cooked in medium thick gravy seasoned with ground spices, especially garom mashla and a touch of ghee.” What makes a Dalna a uniquely Bengali dish is the use of Dhokkar, which are unique to Bengali cuisine.
Khus Khus paste is not used as a curry base, there are some dry dishes using khus khus or posto, but in a gravy based dish khus khus is only occasionally used.
I’m not arguing whether Khus Khus paste is used occasionally or not. The fact is it is used in quite a few Bengali dishes. “ Poppy seeds, like sesame seeds, add a wonderful nutty taste to foods. Bengalis grind them and use them in quantity with vegetables like potatoes and cauliflower to provide a thick clinging sauce.” Posto is so versatile that It is not limited to Potatoes, but can be used with cauliflower, other veggies, fish or shrimp.
You say -- "Shukto is a combination of the Posto and Shorse Jhol as it is made from mustard seeds and khus khus, both blended together." -- this is not what SHUKTO is, please refer to wiki or any other site for correct def.
Shukto recipes start with “Grind Khus Khus and mustard seeds to make a paste”. Now, ground up mustard seeds form the base for Shorse Jhol and Poppy seeds form the base for Posto. Mix both, and you have the base for Shukto.
In fact Wikipedia errs in omitting the mustard paste, calling Shukto as a soupy mixture of vegetables in a ginger-mustard sauce. Ginger maybe optional, but mustard paste is a must.
You say -- "a Bengali raita", there is nothing like a Bengali raita, raita is not a dish of Bengal origin, we definitely like it and eat but there is nothing bengali to it.
Ofcourse there is a Bengali Raita. A Bengali raita is how Bengalis prefer to flavor their yogurt ! Raita is just a flavoured yogurt with goodies. What goodies you add and how you flavor it makes the raita specific to a cuisine. If you flavor yogurt with mustard seeds and split urad dal fried in sesame oil, it becomes the Thayir Pachadi of Tamilnadu. Mix in blended, pickled mangoes and it becomes the Arachu Kalakki of Kerala. Mix in grated garlic, chopped cucumber, mint, olive oil and lemon juice to yogurt and you have the Greek Tzatziki. Mix in grated garlic, mint and black pepper with yogurt and you have Mint- yogurt dip popular in Middle east and Central Asia. Mix in mint, grated garlic, and lemon juice to yogurt and you have the Lebanese Yogurt dip. Mix in chopped onion, grated garlic, olive oil and crumbled feta cheese to yogurt and you have Turkey's Feta Yogurt dip. Mix in grated garlic, lemon juice, tahini and salt to yogurt and you have the famous African 'raita' Zabaadi bil tahin. So yes, there IS a Bengali raita!
Also you keep using the word "curry" every dish is NOT a curry.
Wikipedia : Curry is the English description of any of a general variety of spicy dishes “. This is how I use the word. I need a word, which can cut across cuisines and mean a spiced, dry or gravy based dishes. And if you have a better word than curry, I’d love to hear it.
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